The Romani Castelli (Castles of Rome) is a group of villages located at the feet of the Alban hills. Just half an hour from the capital city, the area is once a rural retreat of Rome’s powerful and wealthiest. Beautiful and lavish vacation villas once proliferates Romani Castelli that are now transformed into government and commercial establishments while some I heard were left to decay, a testament to a decadent social order of the past.
Me in the train enroute to Castel Gandolfo, then later to Frascati; I should not have brought my sunglasses with me, with the gloomy and rainy weather, there was really no point wearing them.
Still today, Romani Castelli is a comfort away from home for many Romans. It’s the perfect place to escape to from the busyness of Rome and exchange it with doses of fresh air, natural scenery, and local food and wine. Home to two beautiful lakes, Lake Nemi and Lake Alban, this commune is also known for producing white wine.
The Pope also has his summer palace here where he spends his time recharging in his exquisite gardens during summer.
When I told my Italian ex-colleague that I am going to Romani Castelli, he exclaimed: Castel Gandolfo! Frascati! Now, coming from a Roman himself, I knew I was on the right track in choosing the 2 villages.
>> Castel Gandolfo
They say that the best way to go about in Castelli Romani is by car but I didn’t like the idea of renting a car and parking it in the center of Rome. I am on holiday and the last thing I want to be occupied and be worried with is finding a parking slot near to my hotel or realizing that (as I was not sure if the meter accepts credit card) I do not have enough coins to pay the parking meter. We all know that having or going by car in a big city in Europe is a major liability = pure unecessary headache. So I went by train.
Castel Gandolfo is about 40 minutes by stoptrain from Roma Termini Stazione. From the train station is another 15-20 minute climb up to the town center. If you are not fit, this is probably not for you, but the views to Lake Alban were pretty though.
This is the entrance to Castel Gandolfo town center. Piazza della Liberta looking to the Palazzo Pontifico (papal residence and observatory) and the church on the far right is called San Tommaso di Villanova.
In Italy, Castel Gandolfo is synonymous to the Pope. Everyone will quickly point out that this hilltop village is the Pope’s summer residence. He is indeed the most famous resident of Castel Gandolfo during the warm and sunny months.
The entrance to the town center has a tower and an (open) arched gate that serves as a first line defense in the past, while the focal point of the public square called Piazza della Liberta is the light apricot building, the papal residence and observatory – Palazzo Pontifico, which is not open to the public by the way. This is where the Pope spends his summer months when the Vatican is too hot and busy, and the Alban hills provide a cooler atmosphere and its views to the Alban Lake offer a fresher ambiance.
Roman Catholic effigies for sale. My parents used to have copies of these but when they changed religions they gave them away (my grandmother was wailing and mourning, seriously). They say the pastor burned the effigies, or maybe threw them into the ocean. Next foto, the dome of San Tommaso di Villanova designed by Bernini, the famous sculptor of Rome. If you are here during August on a Sunday, you might be lucky to see the Pope solemnize a mass.
In Corso della Republica, the narrow street at the end of the piazza facing the Palazzo has uniformed shop signs in wrought-iron and ceramic mosaic patterns. And the Pope of course.
Another interesting building in the square is the oxidized tangerine colored church of San Tommaso di Villanova, designed by Bernini, the famous sculptor that designed many of Rome’s public fountains. It is a small church but with rich and elaborately decorated walls and ceilings.
My recommendation for a Castel Gandolfo trip is a half day visit, max. It’s really small and you would have seen everything (except the Palazzo Pontifico as this is not open to the public) after a couple of hours.
Fotos can be found here: Castel Gandolfo, Castelli Romani (Lazio) – Italy
I think I would have enjoyed Castel Gandolfo if it was not raining. The square was empty except for a group of tourists that congregated and later disappeared to god knows where. The shops were boring; their wares were inside hiding away from the rain. There are no art sellers in the piazza. The cafes have wet terraces; no one wants to sit there. Rain kills the holiday mood. It killed mine. Rain, rain, go away, come again another day!
>> Frascati
So I was hoping it will be better weather in Frascati. But I was so wrong.
From Castel Gandolfo I took the train back and got out of Ciampino where I waited for the train to Frascati. It took only 20 minutes from Ciampino to Frascati (30 minutes if coming from Roma Termini). Unfortunately, the weather did not change, in fact it showered more. I was cold! UHG!
Frascati, like Castel Gandolfo and any town in Italy has charming terracota colored buildings and narrow alleys. Frascati white wine is the pride of the town. Next foto is a painting on the wall of a building with cooks baking pizza using the traditional stone oven. Like the Romans, the Frascatis love their pizza thin crusted. Well, me too!
Villa Aldobrandini, circa 1550 and its huge front yard gardens is located on a slope or like a small hill looking towards Rome.
Frascati is probably the most popular and most visited of all the Castelli Romani villages because of its wine – the Frascati white wine, its beautiful preserved old villas, and its restaurants. Many Romans come here during the weekend to have lunch or dinner, especially during summer because the weather is cooler than in Rome.
The most famous villa in Frascati is the Villa Aldobrandini. The gardens I believe are open to the public during certain hours. Since it was raining, roaming in its gardens was the least thing on my mind. I wanted to sit in a cozy restaurant and eat spaghetti. I am not fond of spaghetti really – the Bolognese inspired tomato sauce topped- I prefer other variations of it, but I was cold and hungry, and thoughts of a warm and heavy meal such as spaghetti in hot tomato sauce seemed to be just perfect for the moment.
I had coffee (espresso) and normally I do not eat pastry with it but was curious with the ‘baba rum’ – an Italian mushroom shape sweet pastry, like little puff cakes in rum-orange flavor. It was too sweet for me but at least I sampled it. Check! 
Cathedral Basilica of St. Peter Apostle, circa 1598 where Charles Edward Stuart was buried before his remains were moved to the Vatican. His praecordia (heart) was left here though in an urn. next foto is a lovely veranda.
While looking for a restaurant, I came upon a narrow street that brought me to a square and the Cathedral Basilica of St. Peter Apostle, Frascati’s main church. There was a rainbow of umbrellas gathered in front of the church – a group of older Italian tourists I reckon. Because I am not familiar with the place, I was curious what and where their next stop would be, so I followed them.
Well, it turned out that they were off to lunch, which is perfect timing really as I am famished. How could I forget I was actually looking for a restaurant in the first place? And, it also turned out that the restaurant they chose is quite popular with the locals. I ordered the spaghetti I longed for and a glass of Frascati white wine. When the cashier put a half liter carafe of Frascati wine in front of me, I almost hesitated. She was not listening, I only ordered a glass. Language barrier perhaps or people in this part of Italy drink half a liter of wine during lunch? Take your pick. Well, fine, I am not driving, so why not? 
Cantina il Pergolato where I had my lunch. As you can see in the foto, people were wearing thick jackets and sporting umbrellas. It was raining and it was cold.
But then, I could not contain my surprise when the cashier announced it will all be €6. Unsure of what I heard, I asked again how much it was. She said loud and clear with a heavy Italian accent — SIX EUROS. Oh wow. My spaghetti Bolognese meal with a half liter of wine is only €6!!!
The spaghetti arrived, it was piping hot, and for its size, I was only able to finish half of it. It may not have been the best of all spaghetti Bolognese (well, I have tasted better and it would have been premium to order this in Bologna) but it was good enough, and it served the purpose.
The soprano and accordionist. It was like watching a free opera concert. Don’t mind my half-finished spaghetti Bolognese.
Fotos can be found here: Frascati, Castelli Romani (Lazio) – Italy
Not only that, during the whole lunch, I was serenaded with live opera music. A soprano and accordionist were there to entertain all the guests. She was roving around the place making sure everyone enjoyed their meal while listening to her music. She was a stellar. It was the best experience my €6 can ever, ever get.
In the end, I didn’t leave Frascati with a bad mood. The rain showers may have tried to dampen my Castelli Romani trip but it wasn’t successful.
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