In Tallinn airport I chatted up a woman manning a tourist services counter for a free city map. I further asked directions on getting to the old town. She said there is a bus but I will have to make a transfer and then walk for 5 minutes, which confirms my earlier research online. Unfortunately the buses and trams do not go into the old town. Another option she said would be to take a cab. I asked her how much it costs. 10 Euros she said and I can buy from her the taxi voucher. Done deal. She told me to hail one of the white cabs outside the taxi lane.
Welcome to Tallinn Old Town!
Next thing I know I am cruising down the cobbled stone streets of Tallinn old town. The trip from the airport is just a 10-15 minute drive depending on the traffic and which part of the old town you are getting off.
It is almost 1PM on the clock and I have just checked in into my hotel, which by the way merits a separate post (more on that later), and the first order of the day for me is to go to the main square called Raekoda and search for III Draakon. I need some lunch.
Medieval III Draakon restaurant
I have read that III Draakon is a medieval dungeon-like cafe restaurant located in the old town hall on Raekoda square. It is the only restaurant of its kind in Europe, they say, or perhaps in the whole world. The women attending the place are dressed in traditional medieval Estonian clothing and are often caught throwing ancient poetry at their customers. Their speciality? Elk soup (podrasupp), elk dried meat, assorted Estonian pies and sausages.
They cooked the elk soup in a steaming cauldron and baked the vegetarian and meat pies themselves in the premises. There were no sausages when I was there though but they had dried elk meat. Now elk is a type of deer animal that roams in northern Europe.
The woman behind the wooden counter spoke impeccable English, which I noticed is quite prevalent all over Estonia. She was a beautiful and entertaining host. She tends to rhyme everything that she says, I was in awe and wondering if I have just been transplanted to the 1500’s. The skeptical side of me though was whispering on my ears that she might just be a scheming dark witch trying to cast a spell on me while pretending to be this lovely and enthusiastic medieval wench.
The only thing I didn’t like was when I was about to pay. She commented that a rich woman like me might want to pay 5 Euros instead of 4 Euros.
Hmm, I don’t know, but what is ‘rich’ anyway? I always felt awkward when strangers talk to me about money. It is a subject that I try to avoid. Nevertheless, it left a bad taste on my mouth so I did not pay more than the actual total cost.
Typically Estonian lunch: Elk soup, elk dried meat and carrot pie
For 4 Euros I had an elk soup (this was sooooooooo good) served in a stone bowl, a carrot pie (also very good, they have other choices such as meat) and a dried elk meat (yummy, I wish I ordered more). All of these are typically Estonian fares, I was told.
Verdict: This must have been one of my most fulfilling yet very interesting lunch. The elk soup was gorgeous and the pie was soooooo good. I wanted more of the elk dried meat as well.
OK, to put things into perspective, this is what I have eaten:
Here is the elk soup and the elk dried meat again (with flash):
Then Little Red Reding Hood (with a green hood but red dress) arrived to buy some pies. I am like, what is this place? A fairy tale? Where is Cinderella and Snow White? LOL
With all the Middle Ages costume regalia and poetry mockery thrown around the place, you’d think this is a big tourist trap. But no, the place is actually highly popular amongst the locals! More than half of the people that came in to buy and eat at this dungeon-like cafe restaurant spoke Estonian or Est. And for 4 euros for a bowl of soup, pie and dried meat stick? Where else can I get that? Just an amazing place!
If you are ever in Tallinn, this place is a must visit. I am sure you will be entertained and will totally enjoy the elk soup and the pies.
Nonetheless, it’s just been over an hour since I have landed in Tallinn, Estonia and now with a full stomach from my traditional Estonian fare, I am already grinning from ear to ear. What more surprises are in store for me in this Tallinn trip? I can not wait to further investigate the old medieval town and find out where her other treasures are hidden.
Travel Period: May 2013
Destination: Tallinn, Estonia
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