Hike 1 on Day 2: Misty Woods and Plateau Views – The Loop to Morsbach
On our second day in the core protected area of the Eifel National Park, the weather took a dramatic turn. We woke up to cloudy, charcoal-grey skies. While our contemporary cabin felt incredibly cosy—especially with the warm, plush bed and panoramic floor-to-ceiling glass windows—I couldn’t help but worry about our hiking plans. As we got ready and enjoyed a late breakfast, the rain poured relentlessly.
We waited a bit, but the weather only seemed to worsen. From inside our cabin, we watched dark grey clouds march across the sky as harsh winds slapped the trees. It looked like a full-blown storm was brewing! Checking the temperature, we saw it had plummeted to a chilly 3°C (37°F)—quite a shock for an early afternoon in autumn.
Our original plan was to hike to the Urft Dam, but with such blustery, raw weather, we decided to save that longer route for the next day, which promised better conditions in the forecast. Instead, we settled on Plan B: a shorter 7-kilometer loop hike nearby which is a section of the famous Eifelsteig Trail.
💡 FAST FACT | The Eifelsteig Trail
The trail we followed is a section of the famous Eifelsteig, a premier 313-kilometer long-distance hiking trail that stretches all the way from Aachen to Trier. The stretch near Vogelsang forms part of Etappe 4 (Stage 4), a challenging 21.2-kilometer route connecting Einruhr to Gemünd through the untouched core of the Eifel National Park.
To navigate, we relied on our Komoot app, which has become completely indispensable during our hiking trips. Leaving our cabin, we stepped directly into the thick forest and soon reached a steep wooden staircase leading down to a rushing stream. Walking on wooden planks in heavy rain is always a test of balance; they get incredibly slick, especially under the dense forest canopy where moss thrives.
While the thick trees served as a nice blanket of protection from the unfavourable wind and rain, the forest brought its own set of trepidation—namely, paths turning into thick, squelching mud. We had to look and navigate the pathways carefully!
Panoramic Pitstops and Postponed Cakes
Our first milestone was the Kickley observation platform.
💡 FAST FACT | Kickley Viewpoint (Aussichtspunkt Kickley)
Perched high above the Olef Valley, the Kickley lookout point features a small wooden refuge hut. On clear days, it offers hikers sweeping, unobstructed views over the scenic Oleftal, the bustling town of Schleiden, and the nearby villages of Herhahn and Gemünd.
Even through the autumn mist, we could peer down into the valley and spot the houses of Morsbach and Herhahn dotting the landscape. We could also see the town of Gemünd, and yes, a sliver of Schleiden is visible in the distance.
Treading onward, we finally broke out of the dense woods into an open meadow. The rain has turned into light drizzles which is a nice welcome for a change when you are in the open. Situated on an elevated crest sits a unique panoramic artwork called the Eifel-Blick Modenhübel. Curious, we went over to check it out.
💡 FAST FACT | Eifel-Blick Modenhübel
The Modenhübel is part of the "Eifel-Blick" network—a series of 65 specially designated panoramic viewpoints scattered across the region. Sitting at an altitude of roughly 520 meters, this specific spot provides a stunning view over the Urft Valley, the high woods of the Wilder Kermeter, and the imposing ridge of the former Ordensburg Vogelsang fortress.
From this vantage point, we paused to enjoy a beautiful, windswept panorama of the landscape. Even with the shabby weather, the panorama here is breathtaking. The small village of Morsbach was now just a short walk away.
💡 FAST FACT | Morsbach Village
Home to just over 330 residents, Morsbach is a quiet, rural district of Schleiden situated on the elevated Dreiborn Plateau (Dreiborner Hochfläche). Historically a farming community, it retains a deep-rooted village charm and shares a close-knit community life with its neighbor, Herhahn.
Tucked away in the village is a lovely café called the Bauerncafé Morsbacher Hof—the absolute perfect spot for a pit stop in dreary weather like this. Visiting for tea and homemade cake had been high on our agenda, but because the morning downpour had delayed our start, we had to make a tough choice. With a sad heart, we skipped the café to ensure we made it back to our cabin before nightfall. When it is cloudy and rainy, you walk slower than usual and darkness falls incredibly fast in an autumn forest—and to top it off, daylight saving time ended that very weekend, robbing us of an extra hour of precious afternoon light.
Hike 2 on Day 3: Sunshine, History, and the Mighty Urft Dam
On our third day, the weather gods smiled on us. We set out on the highly anticipated 14.5-kilometer loop hike to the Urft Dam and back to our base at Neugrad in Vogelsang IP. One of my favourite things about staying here is that we never have to take the car to find a trailhead. We literally step off our doorstep and begin our adventure!
Our trek began with a scenic walk across the historic Vogelsang IP estate, descending down toward the Victor Neels Bridge, which looked like a striking architectural marvel against its vibrant autumnal backdrop.
💡 FAST FACT | The Victor Neels Bridge (Victor-Neels-Brücke)
Spanning 124 meters across the Urftsee reservoir, this impressive steel suspension bridge was built in 2009. It was named in honor of Victor Neels, the last Belgian military commander of the Vogelsang camp. The bridge sways gently beneath hikers' footsteps, providing a thrilling way to cross the water and linking the lakeside trails directly to the Vogelsang estate via a steep 16% gradient climb.
Crossing the swaying deck, we pressed on toward the dam. It was a flawless autumnal walk. The scenic views of the Urft reservoir (Urfttalsperre)—which feeds into the Obersee in the very heart of the Eifel National Park—were breathtaking. The fiery gold and deep orange colours of the season brought us immense joy. Better yet, the rain had completely vanished, replaced by gentle rays of sunshine breaking beautifully through the forest trees.
Echoes of History at the Dam
We had been very much looking forward to a warm coffee at the restaurant café situated right on the dam, but for some reason, it was closed when we arrived. Luckily, we had packed our own drinks and snacks. We claimed a couple of outdoor chairs, drank our chocolate drink and ate our waffles as we sat back to breathe in the spectacular, quiet beauty of the Urft Dam and its surrounding cliffs.
💡 FAST FACT | The Urft Dam (Urfttalsperre)
Constructed between 1900 and 1905 according to the design principles of pioneer engineer Professor Otto Intze, the Urft Dam is the oldest valley dam in the Eifel region. At the time of its completion, the 58.5-meter-high quarrystone wall was the largest hydraulic engineering structure in Central Europe, built to provide flood protection, generate hydroelectric power, and secure drinking water for the region.
We lingered at the site for a while, reading the historical information boards and appreciating the sheer scale of the stone dam wall. It is incredible how harmoniously this massive structure sits within the wild, rugged nature of the Eifel. This area of the Eifel is simply breathtaking. I will let my pictures do the rest of the talking.
The Prairie Meadows and the Ghost Village
Leaving the dam behind, we entered the woods and quickly descended onto a path buried deep in the forest. I knew that what goes down must come up, and that meant some serious work ahead for our legs and knees. Eventually, the steady climb began, leading us up onto a vast, high plateau.
I absolutely loved this meadow section of the hike. The wide, prairie-like vegetation felt incredibly soothing and open. In the distance, rising dramatically amidst a shifting backdrop of mist and autumn trees, the tower of the Vogelsang IP fortress jutted out into the sky. It was an incredibly theatrical setting, with vibrant autumn foliage framing the thick fog resting quietly down in the valley. Nature has a wonderful way of evoking deep emotions without us even realising it.
As we walked further across the Dreiborn Plateau, we reached Wollseifen, an abandoned ghost village with a heavy past. We didn’t see any ghosts loitering around though!
💡 FAST FACT | Wollseifen Ghost Village
Dating back to the year 1200, Wollseifen was once a peaceful farming village. However, in late 1946, following WWII, the British military ordered all 500 residents to evacuate within three weeks to convert the area into a tank training ground. The territory was later handed over to the Belgian military, who constructed windowless concrete dummy houses to practice urban combat. Today, only the historic schoolhouse and the hollowed-out church remain standing amidst the ruins.We stayed here for a while, stepping quietly inside the preserved church and reading the poignant stories of the people who once lived here on the history boards scattered across the site. Just as we arrived, a light drizzle began to fall, making the empty church a welcome, atmospheric escape.
Fortunately, the shower didn’t last long. As we neared the final stretch back to Vogelsang, we encountered one last obstacle: a notoriously long, incredibly muddy stretch of trail. Luckily, we managed to navigate a way around it. Talk about saving the most difficult part for last!
We made it back to our cosy cabin just before dusk. Stepping inside, the immediate contrast of comforts was magical. With the cosy electric fireplace crackling and warm cups of tea cradled in our hands, we relived the wonderful hike we had just walked. The Eifel is a truly stunning place, and we were so incredibly glad we came. We managed to enjoy nature to its absolute max, and throwing a captivating dose of history into the mix made it an unforgettable journey.
Our fourth day featured yet another fantastic autumnal hike, but I will save that for a separate post! That route took us just outside the core protected reserve of the Eifel, centring around one of the main gateway towns to the national park… Stay tuned!
Happy Travels!
With love from Jo
Travel Period: October 2025
Eifel National Park – Schleiden (North Rhine Westphalia), Germany